American Pygmy Kingfisher

Junglin’ Around the Rio Napo

Close your eyes and travel back to the start of February, when we had just arrived to the gateway to the Amazon in Puyo. We had hemmed and hawed as we ate streetside humitas, reconciling the cost and also departing from the bikes. We’d been taking liberties with the excuse “it’s our honeymoon,” and this […]

Climbing out of Laguna Atillo

Final days in Ecuador

From the start, our grand plan has been pretty basic: explore Ecuador on as many dirt roads as possible. We’re using three separate maps, and except for major highways, none ever really agree. The routes we choose in advance really only exist hypothetically until we can confirm that the roads are there. Day by day, […]

Ready, set, push!

A look back at our ride from Puyo south to Macas where we did everything possible to avoid the main roads… After setting off from Puyo at midday, we wound through sugar cane fields and indigenous communities before arriving at our first tarabita (a gravity-powered cable car above the Rio Pastaza). We loaded our bikes […]

Roadside attractions in the Amazon

Beginning our ascent

There are such things as physical oases and mental oases. Sometimes they coincide but not always. We just woke from a physical one that we found at dusk last night: a roof with a creek running alongside for our post ride bath. It was far from a mental oasis in that we had a fitful […]


Saying yes to the unexpected

Reminiscing back to our last post, we ended up pitching our tent under the restaurant’s thatched roof and fell asleep to the crashing high tide and the pouring rain. Next morning after dining on gifted hard boiled eggs, we set out for Bahia de Caraquez, passing watermelon stands and thin cattle en route to the […]

Pacific paradise

A series of mad dash bus tranfers, topped by a driver who impatiently began to back up the bus while the guys were still loading our bikes underneath, made for an adventurous arrival to the coast. Our first stop at MontaƱita was dictated by the bus with the largest cargo hold (we’re always keenly aware […]

Blue Footed Boobie on Isla de la Plata